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Thread: Tired of stripped hex screws...

  1. #1
    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    Question Tired of stripped hex screws...

    I'm so tired of stripped 2 mm hex screws. Whereever I can I try to replace the 2 mm ones with 2.5 mm screws.

    I'm looking for a particular screw type/design at the moment but can't find it. Does anybody know if it even exists?:



    If you have any alternative suggestions you are welcome to share them . Thanks.

    /Greg

  2. #2
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    You might be able to cut it down

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    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    Okay, I may not have been very precise in my first post. Sorry. Let me try again:

    I now use the 2mm hex countersunk flat head screws. I dislike them and want to replace them with 2.5 mm hex countersunk screws. Does any 2.5 mm countersunk screws exist that can replace the regular 2 mm hex screws?

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    RCMTC-MI MiRatlhed's Avatar
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    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    I get a feeling that I either A) suck at english, or B) did a pretty bad drawing. Haha...

    The drawing I made was "supposed" to show a screw that had the top of a socket head screw and the bottom of a flat head socket screw.

    Thanks for your inputs guys. Appreciate it.

  6. #6
    RCMTC-MI MiRatlhed's Avatar
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    Well I got that in your first drawing and then your second post you pretty much were asking for 2.5 flat heads......LOL! So you want a countersunk cap head screw.....OK....gotcha!

    I will keep looking but after you posted that picture I started looking and did not find anything. That one might be a tough one!

  7. #7
    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    Okay, so I suck at english.

    Haven't been able to find such a screw either but don't understand why? I doubt I'm the only one suffering from the weakness of the 2 mm hex screws?

  8. #8
    RCMTC-MI MiRatlhed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gumleguf
    Okay, so I suck at english.
    Ahh, not that bad. We get used to you foreigners around here.....haha


    Quote Originally Posted by gumleguf
    I doubt I'm the only one suffering from the weakness of the 2 mm hex screws?
    Yeah probably not. Heck even the 3mm Flat Head screws are weak. Especially when you receive a part and the person uses Thread Lock like it is a Lubricant and applies it a bit too generously. I just got a G1 transmission on Monday and had to drill and extract two of the five screws out. Got a roller a few months back and the complete truck was LOCKED UP TIGHT.....oh man! More than a couple nightmares on that one.

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    Veteran Mavrick813's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiRatlhed


    Ahh, not that bad. We get used to you foreigners around here.....haha




    Yeah probably not. Heck even the 3mm Flat Head screws are weak. Especially when you receive a part and the person uses Thread Lock like it is a Lubricant and applies it a bit too generously. I just got a G1 transmission on Monday and had to drill and extract two of the five screws out. Got a roller a few months back and the complete truck was LOCKED UP TIGHT.....oh man! More than a couple nightmares on that one.

    FWIW: a soldering iron on the head of a lock tight screw will release the for the most part

    Mike
    UE BB SuperMaxx
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    http://teamtrenton.proboards67.com/

  10. #10
    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiRatlhed
    Especially when you receive a part and the person uses Thread Lock like it is a Lubricant and applies it a bit too generously.
    Exactly the problem I keep having.

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    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mavrick813
    FWIW: a soldering iron on the head of a lock tight screw will release the for the most part

    Mike
    Not a bad suggestion. Just hottest temp and keep it on the screw for how long you reckon'?

  12. #12
    RCMTC-MI MiRatlhed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mavrick813
    FWIW: a soldering iron on the head of a lock tight screw will release the for the most part
    I have used that method and it does not always work. Most of the time if the person uses Thread Lock in that manner the screws usually have about 7% health left on the hex too! haha One try and you have yourself a nice freshly stripped screw....grrrr

  13. #13
    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    Luckily I have a neighbor with some pretty nice tools and great skills but I hate bothering him with stripped screws.

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    I mean cut the socket head so it is clountersinked.

    If you have a steel it may not de that hard. Just cut the part, do it goes from a socket head to a angle in going toward the threaded part.

    Hope this makes sense.

  15. #15
    RCMTC-MI MiRatlhed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ue_maxx

    Hope this makes sense.
    Not a bit ! ......clountersinked is a new one I will have to tell ya.....LMAO!


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    Easy Outs

    I built up my screw stocks using this place, and I love the hardware and customer service.

    http://www.boltdepot.com/

    You can get just about anything you need or have them make something custom.

    Also there are small easy out tools you can purchase fairly cheap that remove stripped screw with little effort. Just check the link and find what works for you. Just copy and paste into your browser.

    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...word=EASY+OUTS

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    I spent What? Nitronaught's Avatar
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    My do's and don't with hex heads....

    1. always use 12.9 black oxide heat treated steel screws... They will not strip...
    2. As often as I can I will use a cap head over a countersunk, there is more material between the head and the shaft which cuts down the possibilities of shearing off the head of the screw. A countersunk washer on top of the cap head usually helps for the difference in shape.
    3. Those darn ball ended drivers..... ONLY USE THEM WHEN YOU HAVE TO ABSOLUTELY USE THEM.... Otherwise the lack of material of the ball end does not give enough physical contact between the wrench and the socket hex giving it a tendency to round out the hex of the screw...

    Many hardware stores refer to 12.9 black oxide heat treated screws also as grade 8... Lowes, Home Depot and Ace hardware all refer to them this way... Then again, Tony's Screws,,, they are not overly priced and you can get screws separate from kits as well Great guy too.
    Ouch, I've been hit in the wallet!!!!
    It's not fatal, just hurts like ______..

  18. #18
    Feeding the Addiction feistyacorn's Avatar
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    I had problems in the past with 2mm screws when I used crappy integy tools. Since I switched to Hudy tools and Tony's screws I havent had any problems. The Hudy tools seem to be nicer to the screws so they last longer.

  19. #19
    Veteran Mavrick813's Avatar
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    I am local to Tony and your right he's a great guy with amazing Customer Service.
    And any business that's willing to meet you at a local convenience store in order to avoid S&H takes them up a notch or two as well.

    Mike
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    http://teamtrenton.proboards67.com/

  20. #20
    Veteran Mavrick813's Avatar
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    Also I use Dynamite Hexes, same set for 11 years. No issues. My Ball Ends and Torx are by Snap On, all of my R/C are changed over to Tonys within days of having them. I've only ever had an issue with 2 screws and they were stuck in chassis rail when it came out of the box.

    Mike
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    http://teamtrenton.proboards67.com/

  21. #21
    Veteran Mavrick813's Avatar
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    Also I use Dynamite Hexes, same set for 11 years. No issues. My Ball Ends and Torx are by Snap On, all of my R/C are changed over to Tonys within days of having them. I've only ever had an issue with 2 screws and they were stuck in chassis rail when it came out of the box.

    Mike
    UE BB SuperMaxx
    HB Lightning Stadium Pro
    http://teamtrenton.proboards67.com/

  22. #22
    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    Thanks to all for your inputs. I really appreciate it.

    One question for Nitronaught; I hear you on using cap heads instead of countersunks - I do that too. You mention something with a washer on top of the cap head? Do you mean a conical washer like on the picture further below?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught
    2. As often as I can I will use a cap head over a countersunk, there is more material between the head and the shaft which cuts down the possibilities of shearing off the head of the screw. A countersunk washer on top of the cap head usually helps for the difference in shape

  23. #23
    I spent What? Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gumleguf
    Thanks to all for your inputs. I really appreciate it.

    One question for Nitronaught; I hear you on using cap heads instead of countersunks - I do that too. You mention something with a washer on top of the cap head? Do you mean a conical washer like on the picture further below?



    Exactly, it would fill the void of space and take tress off the shaft of the screw.... They would go this way into the countersunk hole \_/ and the cap head sits on top But it does need to fit the countersink well and be flush with the surfaces
    Ouch, I've been hit in the wallet!!!!
    It's not fatal, just hurts like ______..

  24. #24
    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    To fit the countersunk hole well the conical washers would need to be 90 degrees. Have you seen any of those?

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    Spell check on my phone. Thats all i can say, Hate it.

  26. #26
    Tony's Screws tony1034's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the kind words guys!

    Greg,
    I have the 2.5mm countersunk screws (flat heads) in 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm lengths. Not sure if you need them longer. I might be able to get longer ones. I see you are in Europe. I ship all over the world. I use USPS Priority Mail International to ship most screw kits and parts. But if you only need a few packs of these, you can always email me your order and I can manually enter it and ship via USPS First-Class Mail International. Priority is $17.25 USD but First-Class would only be a few dollars.

    Best regards,

    Tony P.
    Tonys Screws LLC
    http://www.tonysscrews.com

  27. #27
    Veteran gumleguf's Avatar
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    Tony, thank you for your message. I was not aware that 2.5 mm countersunk flat head screws existed. I never saw those before. But that's excellent to know!

    I'll probably order to complete sets of your fine screws for my Maxx' and I'll remember to the 2.5 mm countersunk screws too.

    Thank you all.

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