Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 81 to 120 of 135

Thread: Help Me Finish My Maxx

  1. #81
    UE ADDICT daparrothead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    D*ckinson, Texas
    Posts
    4,075
    Go to Avid Bearing's & buy the correct bearing's, Your looking at less than $10 shipped. If you grind on the spacer's they are trashed and can't be used properly in the future. Pleas do yourself a favor and do it right, remember you cannot buy spare part's for the gen4 from UE and finding the part's seperate is like finding a needle in a hay stack.

    Here is a link to the bearing's you need to do this right.

    http://www.avidrc.com/product/?c=1&p=78

  2. #82
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584

    Thumbs down

    Okay cool! Thanx Kenny!

    I almost bought a brand new UE Gen4 SS.............

  3. #83
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    The kit came with the broken gear and soo much more EXCEPT this broken pin below.

    [/QUOTE]

    Is it a good idea to make one myself buy cutting off a drill bit shank?

    How do I get one of these? Which kit?

    Thanks,
    Zack

  4. #84
    UE ADDICT daparrothead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    D*ckinson, Texas
    Posts
    4,075
    Hmmm the kit's I have came with the pins also.

  5. #85
    Veteran george16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    2,470
    Yes, you can use a piece of drill bit shank as a pin. You'll need a 2.5mm x 12mm pin.
    Gmaxx
    VBS'ed Predator
    Supermaxx
    Revo 3.3
    Kyosho ST-RR
    Ofna CR1

  6. #86
    Veteran emaxx550's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    St-Felicien, Qc, Ca
    Posts
    160
    I ordered a correct size of ejector pin + the one that I need for hingepins anr cut it to the right lengh.

    Work OK so far.

  7. #87
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by daparrothead
    Hmmm the kit's I have came with the pins also.

    It came with the short pins for the little spyder gears, but not the pin for the 2 bigger outside gears.

  8. #88
    UE ADDICT daparrothead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    D*ckinson, Texas
    Posts
    4,075
    If you have the right size drill bit to make it out of I don't see any reason it wouldn't work just fine.

  9. #89
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Which is better?



    The shorter silver one(shorter because I cut it) says cobalt? Is that hardened steel coated in cobalt? The black one says hardened steel coated in black oxide. Which is what? and which is better? Thanx!

  10. #90
    UE ADDICT daparrothead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    D*ckinson, Texas
    Posts
    4,075
    The Cobalt bit should work just fine.

  11. #91
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by daparrothead
    The Cobalt bit should work just fine.
    So its coated in cobalt?

  12. #92
    UE ADDICT daparrothead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    D*ckinson, Texas
    Posts
    4,075
    Depends on the bit some are coated and some aren't, either way it will work just fine.

  13. #93
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Results.

    Thanks guys!

  14. #94
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584


    Its a titanium HCR Mutant Maxx without top plate converted to brushless extended about 1 inch to a 15-1/2inch wheelbase. Just a couple of mm longer than a Losi 8T 2.0. The top plate is not needed as I mounted the servo flat to the chassis and use red TRX 7075 T6 billet Tubes with Dubro Monsterball links to give the chassis rigidity. The chassis also has been modified to have alittle more kickup than stock. The Mutant does come with any kick up.

    This is my main truck and what has become of this project. I'm building a waterproof high CG river runner/trail truck with the tons of left over parts.

    Thank you guys for all your help!! What do you think? It handles very much like a BL 8T. I'm perfecting the steering but it is good.

  15. #95
    Veteran george16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    2,470
    Looks good. Any over the top shots?
    Gmaxx
    VBS'ed Predator
    Supermaxx
    Revo 3.3
    Kyosho ST-RR
    Ofna CR1

  16. #96
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Here is a link to all the pics.
    http://pbckt.com/sD.Erd
    The Proline HardDrive body is for a Losi 8T and its alittle short.


















    -Zack

  17. #97
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Another poster asked me if Supershocks rub 3.3 plastic drive shafts when mounted to standard plastic arms and I couldn't answer him indubitably. Can someone let me know so I can answer him.

    Thanks,
    Zack

  18. #98
    Veteran george16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    2,470
    Yes it does rub just a little bit.
    Gmaxx
    VBS'ed Predator
    Supermaxx
    Revo 3.3
    Kyosho ST-RR
    Ofna CR1

  19. #99
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Thanks Lito.

  20. #100
    jonesing for UE parts monarchmt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    seattle,WA. Great Falls,MT
    Posts
    528
    indubiatly???
    it's a nitro thing---===============>>>>>>
    when they see my SM-----they won't let me race==>

  21. #101
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    You spelled it wrong but the word I used means without a doubt, or inquestionably, beyond question.

  22. #102
    jonesing for UE parts monarchmt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    seattle,WA. Great Falls,MT
    Posts
    528
    i know---nice use of the word----
    it's a nitro thing---===============>>>>>>
    when they see my SM-----they won't let me race==>

  23. #103
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Thank you! This forum is great!

  24. #104
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    I was reading this thread of mine and realized I never updated about the SS. I got it worked out of course and I just recently bought all the springs and its great! My truck is super snappy. Now if I can just get the diffs fixed... I'm using trx diffs right now and they have worked well for months, still going.

  25. #105
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    2,331
    I have a used sun gear that i can give you. Pm me ur adress and i will send it. What else is brokenin the diffs?? U can use any ofna pins. They all work the same.

  26. #106
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Its the little gears what I need, about three of them I think... Its been a while since I last studied the prolem.

    Respirolgyr you are so kind, a technical asset to this community. One of these day I'm going to send you a body to paint like you have offered, and I wouldn't let you do it without paying you. I know you'd do an awesome job. But right now my self painted (hack job) Proline losi 8T 1.0 HardDrive is still holding its shine.


    Edit: would anything HERE help me?

  27. #107
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    897
    I use parts from the Ofna Hyper 7, 8, 8.5 for my spider 6 diffs.......Lito helped me out with this.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Ofna-Hyper-7...item335d4e89ab

  28. #108
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    They are 8 spider diffs so...

  29. #109
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by kcaz25
    They are 8 spider diffs so...

    Sorry, didn't realize they were 8's, have you tried nitrohouse? They sell alot of Ofna parts.

  30. #110
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    897
    http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...oducts_id=9918

    This is the whole set of gears....

  31. #111
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    I'm going to check out with Nitrohouse later today... is there anything else I need? I'm getting 10,000 mugen oil for my 8 sider diffs, and 30,000 mugen oil for my center diff and of course the gears linked by steve. Thanks steve. Anything else that I need?

  32. #112
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584

    Thanks Kenny!




    Just kinda missing around... I'll probably never run this way. Its a neat concept though.

    The Ultralites will go back in this week! I think I now know what broke the unbreakable 8 spider diffs... I'll post up later this week or next.

    -Zack

  33. #113
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    I have the truck back together after the huge rebuild. Its great. All new Avid bearing. Finally all of Jacob's Proline Powerstrokes are on. I plan to bash them 2day or 2moro but regardless at the end of the week I'm going to probably empty them and add some 60wt oil. I haven't figured out how I'm going to clean them completely any suggestions? I can't remember how I've done this in the past. I got my arms and bracing done, made a new CD top plate out of FullForce CF, switched completely to a one battery setup with my 4s Hyperion next month I'll order a 6500 4s pack so I can run 25 minute mains, and moved my ESC and cleaned up the wiring a bit.

    Jacob, the diffs where doing great! Infact I opened the rear one up just to peak and it was missing a tooth but running fine. I finally got my UE 8spider diffs fixed so I'll take them out at the end of the week and put the UE Ultralites back in.


    I also filled the GS storm CD with 30k. I don't know what was in it.

    Remaining victory points:
    -VTR Calibers
    -7075 aluminum opposite motor mount CD bulk, its plastic now.
    -35c Hyperion 4s 6500mah
    -My own custom lower profile towers
    -CF steering rx tray/deck/plate, its aluminum now.
    -Another body just like the one I have now.
    -Alittle more camber and some other tuning to do.
    -Would be cool to have a Slipperential one day.

    Is this a good place to keep my extra rotor?


    Oh and the UE diffs I think it was the TRX shafts that broke them. Sometimes after a weird landing the RPM suspension would flex allowing a CVD dogbone to monentarily pop out resulting in one of three possiblities... one a bent shaft, two a broken dogbone pin, or three a cracked diff. You can imagine this happening if you understand the forces applied to the inside of the diff when a pin is half in and half out of a cup and then severe pressure is put on it by the suspension try to push it back in against the diff cup upon landing the jump and it spinning all time by the brushless motor.

    Thanks,
    Zack

  34. #114
    Feeding the Addiction
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    GTA, Canada
    Posts
    49
    Lipo battery car stand, thats a first


  35. #115
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    LOL at dkexige. The truck is doing great and of course the UE hinge pins are good.
    I have a question. I got aluminum arms and had a nasty fall from the skies above with these arms and the landing pulled a pivot ball out of knuckle and snapped another leaving the threads in the arm. Now would UE be the solution here? Should I get UE pivot balls? Titanium or hardened steel? Help me. Titanium I understand would give me some forgiveness but might bend and the TRX pivot balls are hardened steel so when taking that into account would the UE hard steel or titanium be better?

    Thanx,
    Zack

  36. #116
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    Bump concerning the UE pivot balls are they better than hardened TRX? Which ones steel or titanium?

  37. #117
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Oakland CA.
    Posts
    630
    Steel UE pivot balls are black, titaniums are shiny. I think the UE steel are better because of the coating and are slightly lighter - however the main feature of UE pillow balls is that they have a hex at the end of the threading so that if you sheer off your pivot ball (clearly we are talking about aluminum a-arms) you can still back it out without any trouble. However I believe that only UE suspension has a hole drilled in the Arms such that you can use this feature.
    <-- Emaxx guy

  38. #118
    UE ADDICT daparrothead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    D*ckinson, Texas
    Posts
    4,075
    If you are mainly bashing I would definately go with the UE steel pb's, there isn't any better!!!! The titanium are considerably lighter but they will bend considerably easier.

  39. #119
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584














    The spring setup is way too soft of course having come from a buggy. I'll buy the spring kit for it. I've got thick oil for them. I'm thinking 60,000

    What are the thoughts on the battery tray location? I can move it up a good bit more. I'm going to cut that tab off in the back. The RCM tray is the last thing that needs working on.

  40. #120
    Veteran
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    584
    I know its time for an update. I've been running the truck off and on. Sometimes all day. It's tough. Ive moved the RX. Acquired a black fan instead of the purple one. I now have an all white mugen wing. 2 sets of LRP tires. I trimmed the battery tray. And the only breakage has been my servo. I broke a titanium gear. I now run a titanium geared Savox. Also, the antenna wire on my RX fell off but range is not affected.

    The reason for bringing up this old thread is because my UE Gen IV servo saver has developed some rough spots on the 'slides'. The groves under the spring part is what I am talking about. Instead of sliding up each other and ramping what they do is more like bite together. This keeps it from operating like it is supposed to, and is why, I think, i broke my servo. I am running the heaviest spring. Any help would be appreciated.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •