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Thread: Beeek's Installation Highlights - good skid flattening pics

  1. #1
    The Choken Tick beeek's Avatar
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    Beeek's Installation Highlights - good skid flattening pics

    I'm just going to highlight the things that I deviated a bit with to achieve what I wanted on my 05A. You'll want to read Trick's instructions carefully because there's a lot of very good and chronologically important information that came from much work and input from lots of experience. I had a lot of fun doing this and learning a bit more about the intricacies of my amazing bike. I'm not a mechanic but I've accumulated enough basic tools over the years to get by. I only had to go out and get a few bigger sockets as well as Max's tank ring remover. I tried to make my own out of a coffee can but that failed miserably. I think maybe coffee cans in Canada are cheaper and a different size.

    I'll start by posting some instructions I made up at the beginning for anyone that have not previously stripped their bike to the level needed to start the tank work. I removed a few of the manual schematics due to the Mocophobia that has spread as of late. If anyone wants the version with them included feel free to PM me with your email address.

    Thanks to Trick for making this possible. <all bow to Trick>
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    The Choken Tick beeek's Avatar
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    The New Tank Is Here! The New Tank Is Here!

    I was very impressed with the quality and size of this baby! It makes the stock one look cheap and tiny.
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    How I Bent My Skid Plate

    I first placed a jack/piece of wood at/under the bend and then started out with a hockey stick to begin flattening it. I bent it all the way flat with a stick and rubber mallet once I'd gotten it part way down. I got my wife to stabilize the bike while doing this since I don't trust the bike not shifting on the stand....I've had a few uneventful reminders over the past couple of years...So don't take it for granted that it won't move.
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    Ignition/ Seat Latch Relocation

    I'd already done V-Rod Mike's ignition relocation (love it) so the only part I had to deal with here was what to do with the seat latching. While many will/have gone with Trick's package, many have just put a grommet in the hole and not bothered with any mechanism, while some have just made up a finger pull cord.
    I decided to use Trick's relocation bracket to hold my previously purchased Harley pushbutton (46560-06) and his extended cable to reach my latch from the new location. I bought an extra button cover (51636-06) to fill the old hole in my tank cover where the original was. It works great.
    It's where the Harley logo is shown here but you can see the final one in my completed picture coming up.
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    How I Did My Saddlebag Bracket Bolts

    Since I was one of the guinea pigs I didn't have the recommended allen flathead bolts, nor could I find them locally. So, I made my own out of the original bolts. For those who don't want to take the rear fender apart to get the brackets out to chamfer the holes for the flathead bolts, this is an alternative that worked for me. I used my bench grinder and sander to get them to be low and smooth. The tank slid in without touching them. I used some of my touchup paint I'd used on the inside frame earlier to protect the heads (not shown) and also used Anti-Seize on the treads (to ensure I can still remove them 10 years from now).
    There was some debate on the reduced strength of the bolt heads but I believe we agreed that most if any forces are seen by the shaft of the bolt, not the head. The nearby shock bolts provide most of the pinching strength in this area anyway. As a matter of fact, many people have removed the whole bracket to make room for 200 mm tires anyways.
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    Slides In Like It Was Always Meant To Be

    I'll bet those who don't have the tank yet drool when they look at these...
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    My Mud Flap

    I didn't really want to alter my stock mud flap just in case some day I want to revert to the stock setup to sell the bike (ya right) and take the tank with me. Also, I realized if I ever had a seat latch mechanism failure, I'd have no way to reach it since the plastic mudflap mounting bolts are only accessible from under the locked seat. So, I made my own removeable mudflap from 1/8" rubber sheet. I used heavy duty 2" outdoor industrial velcro to attach it. The picture doesn't really show it but it came out looking nicer and smoother than the stock flap. I think this mod will make my bike faster than everyone else's.
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    Tank Ring / Fuel Mods

    I shaved my tank ring a bit differently than instructed to make the overall diameter a bit smaller while still retaining enough meat for my Maxi-Tool to bite into. I used my bench grinder for this in about 30 seconds.
    I'm including a picture of my optional fuel pump assembly mod (getting the last drop) to perhaps shed more light on how to do so. It's easy when you just follow Trick's instructions word for word. Don't question him...you'll just look stupid.
    Oh, and make sure you don't miss the opportunity to clean the sensor strip (the thing that the floaty thing rides on) with Brillo pad. Mine was kinda dirty looking but now is shiny and ready to provide my gauge with accurate and consistent resistance readings
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    Fuel Cap and Siren

    She's nice and tight under that seat now. I've got the stock and Sundowner seats so it isn't too bad. One of these days I'll get a nice shiney lower profile cap when I'm not rushed but for now I just shaved the handle off and stuck a piece of tape over the leftover hole.

    Since the original siren location tucked in the plastic mudflap no longer exists I had to find a new spot. I tried to fit my siren box in the same place as Ms. Nightmare (tucked in amongst the relay/fuse box under your crotch) but my relay wires are a bit different and in the way. So, I extended my wiring and ran it up to the front. It's hard to notice in the pic but it fits perfectly on top of the battery and under my Gils box. Being topless has its advantages. I don't like mounting stuff inside the lower airbox and I like opening things up to hardly notice any mods and neatly run wiring. I think the alarm is actually louder up front than tucked away under my arse.
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  10. #10
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    Chrome Tank Covers

    I figured the new tank's tighter fit wouldn't accommodate my precious covers but I wasn't too worried something couldn't be done. The easy fix on my style of covers was to just grind off the tips and then protect them so you don't scratch the bike frame. I used electrical tape which works good since it's a bit slippery at the same time as cushioning. Trick recommended Shoe Goo. These fingers are spring steel so I didn't even try to snip them. The cover shown is the right side of course but the left side needed the same. The left side also needed one of the metal fingers removed temporarily to allow me to shave off that finger's mount (to make it shorter). You'll quickly realize why when you have a look. It took me about twenty minutes to do this.
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    Here's The Resulting Looks

    All that work and I can hardly see the dam thing.
    I think it looks very cool, better finish than stock.
    Now I have to wait until the snow melts to try it out but some of the Southerners are already posting great range results....which is why I bought this gem....the one and only thing that bothered me when I bought the bike. And now that thorn is gone....WOOOHOOO..Blue Ridge Parkway here I come!

    I'm going to miss the tinkering...give me something else to mod.
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  12. #12
    Robin Oury, UE's owner MonsterMaxx's Avatar
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    That's really nice Mark.

    For reference, the mudflap is #59709-01 $27

    On those fingers, how about a little snip of heatshrink? Might last longer than electrical tape, protect just as well and 'look' a little more professional.

    Nice on the siren too. Actually, I think I like that better than next to the fuse block. Can you provide us with the length you extended it?
    We were able to find that type plug (it's the ign one we are still searching for.) I can get an extension made up with plugs on it.

    That last pic is really pretty. I particularly like how the 3 buttons balance. Very nice.
    “That which doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger.” - Nietzsche

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    Skidplate

    I don't see where you added anything to your skidplate?

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    Mud Flap

    Quote Originally Posted by MonsterMaxx
    That's really nice Mark.

    For reference, the mudflap is #59709-01 $27

    On those fingers, how about a little snip of heatshrink? Might last longer than electrical tape, protect just as well and 'look' a little more professional.

    Nice on the siren too. Actually, I think I like that better than next to the fuse block. Can you provide us with the length you extended it?
    We were able to find that type plug (it's the ign one we are still searching for.) I can get an extension made up with plugs on it.

    That last pic is really pretty. I particularly like how the 3 buttons balance. Very nice.
    Is it possible to place the siren in the rear fender, I already have the intergrated brake/signal box that goes with the alarm system mounted there. I would think there would be enough room to do this instead of wiring it to the front of the bike. I guess I should of asked this question first, Is there no way to fit the siren in the original location after reforming the mud flap?

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    The Choken Tick beeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MonsterMaxx
    That's really nice Mark.

    For reference, the mudflap is #59709-01 $27
    Thanks Robin.
    Yeah, knowing you can easily replace the flap for not too much is good piece of mind. I'm sometimes still living in my early twenties long before the internet, when I had to make everything, and couldn't afford the expensive stock replacement parts which were hard to get.
    Yes, heatshrink is the way to go, and I will do it later. It was late when I did the covers and didn't feel like running all the way to the basement to get my heatgun again....there was a roll of tape right in front of me.

    Quote Originally Posted by MonsterMaxx
    Nice on the siren too. Actually, I think I like that better than next to the fuse block. Can you provide us with the length you extended it?
    I used about 36" of 4 conductor (only used 3) Belden cable which was very close to the same gauge wire. This allowed me to splice at the top of the tank and then run it with a bit of slack under the frame where the relays/fuses are. Underneath there I used about 6 inches of the same black flexible conduit used elsewhere on the bike for extra protection and a professional look. I ran the cable along the left side harness and you can't see it with the lower airbox installed.
    Quote Originally Posted by vrodrjs
    I don't see where you added anything to your skidplate?
    You weren't supposed to notice! I'd just taken the bike off the stand with my rear wheel just installed when I took the pic. I'd placed the jack in the way earlier so I left this step until the end when I had the flexibility to move the jack wherever I had to once the wheel was back on.
    Quote Originally Posted by sevrod05
    Is it possible to place the siren in the rear fender, I already have the intergrated brake/signal box that goes with the alarm system mounted there. I would think there would be enough room to do this instead of wiring it to the front of the bike. I guess I should of asked this question first, Is there no way to fit the siren in the original location after reforming the mud flap?
    Yes, you can definitely still fit it under the fender about where it was if you want to mould the flap around the siren. There's still lots of room. I'd thought about doing just that until I figured out that I wanted a rubber flap instead.
    If I were you I'd make a dummy siren out of a block of wood for use during the moulding process.

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    Lookin' good, Mark! Didn't you just ask for something to tinker with next?

    Well, how 'bout you coming to Sonoma County for one weekend & then you can tinker with the installation of my tank when it arrives?

    Good job, Mark! Wish you lived closer, man.....

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    The Choken Tick beeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by one2manybrew
    Lookin' good, Mark! Didn't you just ask for something to tinker with next?

    Well, how 'bout you coming to Sonoma County for one weekend & then you can tinker with the installation of my tank when it arrives?

    Good job, Mark! Wish you lived closer, man.....
    Me too! I'd be all over it!! Bet your weather doesn't suck as much as ours right now.

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    Hey Beek,

    1) What the "grommet mod" for the seat latch?

    2) What holding the center button in place on your right side cover?

    3) I'm confused on the siren. It seem you have to relocate it, yet on the last post you say there's room for it to remain there. The onlt part of the install that's trippin me out is the dogone mudflap.
    Think there's room to velcro the siren to the steel inner fender (under the rear fender, right under the tail light)?

  19. #19
    Robin Oury, UE's owner MonsterMaxx's Avatar
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    Kennedy, while you are probably right about there being enough room there under the fender, that siren will get totally drowned as well as having road crud sprayed all over it. The harness will not be long enough.

    So you already have to extend the harness, either by cutting and splicing or with us making an extension cord. Or by fishing it out of the main harness back towards the computer.

    As long as you've already got the harness extended there's lots of places up under the airbox cover that it could go and it's clean and dry up in there.
    “That which doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger.” - Nietzsche

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    Quote Originally Posted by MonsterMaxx
    Kennedy, while you are probably right about there being enough room there under the fender, that siren will get totally drowned as well as having road crud sprayed all over it. The harness will not be long enough.

    So you already have to extend the harness, either by cutting and splicing or with us making an extension cord. Or by fishing it out of the main harness back towards the computer.

    As long as you've already got the harness extended there's lots of places up under the airbox cover that it could go and it's clean and dry up in there.
    I hear you. My airbox/battery area is accessory capitalized though. PCIII USB, HID Ballast box and controller+ relay, Dakota Digital speedo adjuster, moving the pump to my air-rodes there ot make this happen... Not sure where the siren will fit in the box. Im looking for alternative crevises to put ANYTHING at this point.

    I have a Willie G seat. Think it might fit with the TSSM?

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    The Choken Tick beeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennedy
    Hey Beek,

    1) What the "grommet mod" for the seat latch?

    2) What holding the center button in place on your right side cover?

    3) I'm confused on the siren. It seem you have to relocate it, yet on the last post you say there's room for it to remain there. The onlt part of the install that's trippin me out is the dogone mudflap.
    Think there's room to velcro the siren to the steel inner fender (under the rear fender, right under the tail light)?
    1) The grommet mod is done by removing the latch assembly and putting a rubber grommet in the hole to friction fit with the seat penis. This is the way the R model (I think) works already...ie. no mechanism. I did not use this method.
    2) The chrome button cover is epoxied from behind. It's against the back shoulder of the cover. It looks great in real life...maybe even better than the normal position floating flush with the cover.
    3) I moved my siren to the top of the battery and under my Gils box. Falling in line with me not putting back where it was (by heat molding the mudflap), I didn't want to melt the mud flap for reasons already stated. However, there is room to do that. I agree with Robin in that it's already too muffled in that spot compared to where I moved it, but that might be remedied a bit by providing a sound channel in the flap, like they did for the stock setup.

  22. #22
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    Beeek Quote "Yes, you can definitely still fit it under the fender about where it was if you want to mould the flap around the siren. There's still lots of room. I'd thought about doing just that until I figured out that I wanted a rubber flap instead.
    If I were you I'd make a dummy siren out of a block of wood for use during the moulding process.[/QUOTE]

    My thoughts exactly as I was sitting staring today waiting for parts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by raebear
    Beeek Quote "Yes, you can definitely still fit it under the fender about where it was if you want to mould the flap around the siren. There's still lots of room. I'd thought about doing just that until I figured out that I wanted a rubber flap instead.
    If I were you I'd make a dummy siren out of a block of wood for use during the moulding process.
    My thoughts exactly as I was sitting staring today waiting for parts.[/QUOTE]

    Confused... The cutout for the is already molded... ?

    What are folks doing for the gas cap issue (other than chopping up the stocker)? Anyone have a good aftermarket one lined up?

  24. #24
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    Stock there is a pocket for the unit, the corners and such are molded broadly, and there are 'unnecessary' high points. Beeeks idea of using a wooden template and molding around, ie pushing everything else around the block down and out of the way is outstanding. I had just been thinking that it would fit and if you did it carefully you could do it with the siren module without getting it to hot, the wood template would be the way to do it. I think the rest of the team just did not worry about it and did other things. I don't use the HD siren, I use a dirrent one much smaller and louder and cheaper. As far as I know -- untested yet, but looking at it, it very well may work.

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    Where did you get the chrome button for the right side cover? Do you have a HD part #?

  26. #26
    The Choken Tick beeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by v-rod149
    Where did you get the chrome button for the right side cover? Do you have a HD part #?
    It's part number 51636-06 and I ordered it from Zanotti's. Something like $6.50.

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    Thanks Beeek!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by v-rod149
    Thanks Beeek!!!

    I decided to try something different with the skid plate.

    I cut the factory plate off even with where the new rivet on skid plate ended.

    I welded both plates together at the junction, ground the weld down flat, spray painted the whole skid plate and it looks like it left the factory that way.

    Just another option if you have the means of doing it.

  29. #29
    Robin Oury, UE's owner MonsterMaxx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustanggt
    I welded both plates together at the junction, ground the weld down flat, spray painted the whole skid plate and it looks like it left the factory that way.
    Now you know we are going to ask for pictures!!!
    “That which doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger.” - Nietzsche

  30. #30
    The Choken Tick beeek's Avatar
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    Hi guys. I still love my TrickTank after 1.5 years!! It expanded a bit during the first few months and it's a snug fit but I've had it out/in a couple of times since then. The first time was to add Robin's new-at-the-time bracket. The second time was to chrome the exposed side. This time I was able to put the two bracket bolts back in without a strap wrench...kinda like everything mellowed out.
    Robin, so many people want a cover for this part to match the other covers. There's been talk but no one ever comes through. I think you'd sell well with a contoured one that would mimic the HD one...


    I can't seem to upload any pictures of my chromed tank at the moment.

  31. #31
    Robin Oury, UE's owner MonsterMaxx's Avatar
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    What do you mean 'mimic the HD one'?
    ...like the one in the pic? You can use that one. All you have to do is cut the ends off the fingers so it'll slip in between the frame and tank.
    “That which doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger.” - Nietzsche

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    Yes, I did cut the fingers off way back at the beginning in post #10. I'm not talking about making another cover to replace the one in the picture. I'm talking about making a cover that looks like the one in the picture...for the slightly lower part of the exposed tank....so people don't have to chrome their tank like I did as shown in the attached pics...
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    Robin Oury, UE's owner MonsterMaxx's Avatar
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    You chromed the tank??? Wow, the plastic is so dynamic (changing size with temperature) I wouldn't think that would last very long. Sure looks purdy though.

    That's a majorly complex surface, I can't see any way to bend that up, it'd have to be a stamping = $$$$$, we are probably talking $5k just for the tool. Not going to happen.

    Maybe some kind of really thin material that essentially glues on might work, that you could form the edges after. But I'd think even that would be cheap and prone to install errors, not to mention not at all durable.

    I'll ponder it some more, but right off the top of my head it sounds like a pretty difficult and expensive task.
    “That which doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger.” - Nietzsche

  34. #34
    The Choken Tick beeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MonsterMaxx
    You chromed the tank??? Wow, the plastic is so dynamic (changing size with temperature) I wouldn't think that would last very long. Sure looks purdy though.

    That's a majorly complex surface, I can't see any way to bend that up, it'd have to be a stamping = $$$$$, we are probably talking $5k just for the tool. Not going to happen.

    Maybe some kind of really thin material that essentially glues on might work, that you could form the edges after. But I'd think even that would be cheap and prone to install errors, not to mention not at all durable.

    I'll ponder it some more, but right off the top of my head it sounds like a pretty difficult and expensive task.
    I actually only had the section done that you can see in the pics. I didn't think I'd be able to get the tank back in if I did the whole thing. It's a different process than normal...called cosmichrome, using a spray on plating process. It's pretty amazing...and much cheaper. Mine's not perfect but it's close. Some of the stuff I saw in the shop you wouldn't know the difference.
    http://www.goldtouchinc.com/cosmichrome/

    If you did come up with something contoured it would be a big seller (I know you've heard that before). Everything else out there is just cheap, 2D, flat, and homemade looking.

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    Quote Originally Posted by beeek
    I'll bet those who don't have the tank yet drool when they look at these...
    Drooling while I wait for mine.

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