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Thread: raebears 05A install

  1. #1
    RC in my Blood
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    153

    raebears 05A install

    Just a short intro for now. I have been waiting for this tank since I found out about it and have followed the 1130cc thread closely. I planned on doing wheels, tires, rotors, chrome pulley, possibly a CV pivot bolt peg adapter, and switching to Brembos brakes over the winter, along with a few other little things. When Robin called for beta testers I gladly volunteered. Figured I could get it done all at once. I am by no means a mechanic and tore the bike down further than I ever thought I would, not just for the tank but all the mods I ended up doing. The only thing I needed help with was mounting and balancing the tires. Glad I did the work, really learned a lot and am confident now that I can successfully do other mods and my own maintenance. I am fairly handy and have a good head on my shoulders (yes, I know that part is debateable) and access to really good wrenches should I have needed them.... did'nt.

    05A
    16g SE pipes
    180 Dunlop to 200 Metz
    Progressive 440's 13"- stock length
    stock and sundowner seat
    leather FPOS saddlebags sometimes

    The tools I did not have, had to borrow or buy- large enough sockets for axle removal, 14mm hex head for pivot bolt, heat gun, rivet gun
    Tools I am glad I had, Service and Parts manual, a bike lift with straps, ratcheting torque wrench, dremel with a cone shaped stone, metric and SAE hand tools, torx and allens.. metric, bench grinder but really that was for things other than the tank, digital camera, belt tensioning tool-(although you could use cheatins method). The help of the members from 1130cc.com and the other beta testers. Max's tool to remove the sending unit, although you can make one from PVC or a coffee can, how to's can be found on 1130cc.com; I'll post links to those later. HD touch up frame paint, small can of black enamel paint, diaelectric grease, antisieze lube, available from any auto store less than $1 for the little packets. Zip ties, blue locktite.

    Quick highlights;

    Disassembly-
    was just that, taking it apart, pretty straight forward and no big deal other than tracking down the tools I needed. 16g needed to come off to the third member. I did not put the pivot bolt back in, should have, moved the bike on the lift to see how the skid plate would align and the motor shifted. Was an oh sh!t moment, thought and putzed a little, then got an old wooden pool que and rubber mallet- lined it right back up. Easy said later I could have used a drift punch, but I did not have one and couldn't recall the name and wanted to keep working; pool que worked well- put the bolt back in. but not that stupid. Just go slow, pay attention and take pic's if you think you will have a question. Most of the stuff I disassembled was the first time I had ever taken any of it off. With the manuals on hand, and the camera no big deal. The pipes were probably the biggest PIA for me.

    Prep work;
    I was a little concerned at the mention of 'grinding the frame', that is really not what is involved. I probably could have installed the tank without any of the grinding and been fine, my frame was pretty clean. But once the old tank was out and seeing what Robin was talking about, it made sense to do, just from wanting as smooth a place as possible for the tank to lay, why worry about if a little sharp nubbin will eventually/possibly rub a hole at some point. It is a very snug fit! I used the dremel and cone shaped stone and it took less than 10-15 min, no possible chance of doing any harm to the frames integrity. Bending the skid plate down and getting it flat was a little interesting and the members used various methods. I pushed it by hand as far as i could, then put a car jack with a 2x4 on it under where the bow starts to form (you will see it when you start bending), then took another 2x4 and continued bending it down from above, and to finish it off, held it flat from above with the 2x4 and beat the bow flat with a hammer from below, not very elegant but effective. The CA cannister I removed also with the Dremel and cone stone. For those that have the saddle bag supports still on; the two bolts that hold them in place need to replaced with flat hex types, this was unknown during testing, and they are going to be included in the kit I believe, anyway the bracket needs to be counter sunk to accept them, I could not find a quality reasonbly priced counter sink bit so I just flared them out, again with the dremel and cone shaped bit, Beek I believe just shaved the heads of the stockers down. Paint all the bare metal before reassembly

    The Install;

    a. The ignition- and seat release cable; follow the instructions -when you remove the 3 torx from the ignition to separate the halves, do so on a bench or clean table, there are two springs and metal tabs you do not want to lose inside. In addition if you have the half with the key tumbler in it and you are examing how to route the wiring with it, either put the torx back in temporarily or and be very careful you do not bump it hard or drop it, it will come apart further and 3 more small springs and 3 ball bearings will go flying. Do not ask how I know this, remember and bumped it hard with the two halves just seated together the tumbler half hit the ground and exploded, fortunatley (sp) it is sometimes better to be lucky than good and I found those little devils fairly easily in a messy, cold, leaf strewn garage. But it could have been very ugly. I did however learn the trick on how to reassemble it, and it is a bit tricky, doable but tricky. Just dont drop it. There is also a little brass pivot in the seat release mechanism you don't want to lose. Some people did not bother with relocating the ignition switch and went wireless; ie no key necessary, just arm/disarm the security system, the only disadvantage I see is that the ignition has to be in the accessory position to read trouble codes. There is a thread on 1130cc by Max on this topic. Others had already relocated it per VRodMikes instructions. Some people did not reinstall the seat latch mechanism. Some used an O ring like on the newer models, or just configured a pull loop. others will chime in. I used mine and learned this; for me I had to place the tank in, stretch the cable and mechanism and get it inbetween the tank and the frame I then realized that I put it in upside down- there is no room to flip it 180 degrees when it is in there. So... I had to get it out and put it back in right side up, bit of a PIA, very tight, but hey I am learning right.

    b. Mud flap, seat, fuel catch cover; The mud flap I heated off the bike, looked at where it hit, heated it up pushed it in by hand; not by bare hand mind you, repeated. Use the heat gun on low and go slow takes a little longer but you will do a better job and not get a puddle of molten plastic. Both my seats needed a little heat treatment and I shaved a little off the top of the gas cap. Fuel catch cover I left alone.

    c. sending unit/getting the last drop, took it out looked at it and went hmmmm. I could not see why/how this would do anything. And I was not going to start cutting if I could not understand why. The light finally went on and I thought Robin is a genius, I understood. This would be a good mod for any tank to help access as much fuel as possible. Time to actually do this, 15 min maybe.

    d. fuel flange lock ring. snip it well, i took a little off, then had to take more off. It is very tight, and if you dont snip enough, the ring will not turn evenly on the tank and you do not want to cross thread it. This is the place where Max's tool worked really well.

    Reassembly;

    Put it back together, check everything go ride.
    I unfortunately have to wait for my pivot bolt and pulley to get back from chroming.

    It really was straight forward and no huge deal. If anyone has any questions or needs any help let me know I am more than willing to assist. I will be going through my pic's and posting them probably tomorrow or the next, can't ride tomorrow so I am gonna brew beer and work on the new brakes and new clutch line if it gets here.
    Guess it wan't so short after all.

    Thanks Robin!

    Ray

  2. #2
    RC in my Blood
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    153

    Ignition Pics

    May be helpful
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    RC in my Blood
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    153

    Fuel sending unit

    Ditto
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Is Being Anal a Disease?
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    44
    On INSTALL letter d....what do you mean when you say snip the lock ring???

    I do not have my sending unit out but I'm having a hard time following those directions. I'm sure once I pull it out it will be easier to see what has to be done.....My mind is numb.....keyless ignition, grommet for seat, trying to fit 5 things in my lower air box (PC, HDI unit, siren, speedo correction unit & a air horn mini compressor)...It never ends.....


    deleted the long quote, unnecessary
    Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 02-24-2007 at 09:12 PM.

  5. #5
    Robin Oury, UE's owner MonsterMaxx's Avatar
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    The corners of the big ring that holds the sending unit in need to have their edges trimmed slightly.

    I think once you have the parts in hand it's a lot easier.
    "That which doesn't kill me, makes me stronger." - Nietzsche

  6. #6
    RC in my Blood
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    153
    Yup, the ring which holds the guts inside the tank. Or the fuel flange inside the tank. looking at the pic it took me a while to figure out what it was also.

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